First by Van Cleef & Arpels

Today I am wearing First by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Oh joy, pure joy. This is certainly, as VC&A claim, a ‘timeless jewel’, but I actually think it smells like a prettier version of Jean Patou’s Joy – which is surely the original timeless jewel.

A truly pretty floral even with its teasing little hints of civet that pop up every now and then. The hyacinth is mind blowing. I have a big blue hyacinth growing in the kitchen at the moment and Harry tells me that I smell ‘like that pot plant by the sink’. I think he’s giving me a compliment and he’s not confusing me with the poinsettia which is on its last legs…..

First is a BIG perfume. It’s bold, deep, sensuous and …I’m going to allow myself to use the word ‘glorious’.

Although the hyacinth is the mainstay, the other florals that bolster it include rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, tuberose, narcissus, carnation and orchid. I felt that the perfume immediately surrounded me in a big bouquet of flowers, but I do have to report that the opening notes of aldehydes, peach, raspberry, blackcurrant and mandarin were there, but they too were bowled over by the mighty hyacinth. Actually the aldehydes are apparent; they give this perfume a Chanel No 5 expensive powderyness.

A few hours on and the perfume has changed. The hyacinth still teases, but it is now the deeper dry down notes that have taken control. There are creamy sweet notes courtesy of sandalwood, tonka, honey and amber intermingled with woody notes of oakmoss, patchouli and vetiver give it an opulent, warm element whilst castoreum adds to the richness and fullness.

It isn’t a light perfume, nor, in my opinion, one for a spring or summer’s day – but on cooler days and fireside evenings this one would go down well. It would work especially well for a formal occasion with killer heels, a ball gown and a glittering tiara….