Thursday 15 May 2014

Perfume Thursday: Le Labo - Oud 27


As you might be aware, Civet is our aroma of the week, which as explained on our Facebook page isn't one that really makes us happy upon smelling. It's dank, dirty, fecal and all in all quite smelly. Nonetheless, it's featured in numerous well-known and loved perfumes to add a certain sexy edge. 

For this week's Perfume Thursday choice we knew had to choose a perfume that included Civet, which isn't usually a problem as, as explained above, many perfumers choose to include it and include it so well, it's undetectable. However, we seem to have stumbled upon a Civet inclusive perfume that, in truth, smells like cow pat. 

Okay, okay, that's a tad unfair. What we meant to say is it smells like sweet cow pat. Okay, that's still is a bit harsh, but it is our true opinion and that's what Perfume Thursday is all about.
Oud 27 by Le Labo should, in theory, be lovely. It's made up of Oud and 27 *mostly* mysterious aromas (hence the name! All of Le Labo's perfumes are named in the same way, stating the amount of aromas that have been blended to create it). Of course we know some of the aromas, Oud and Civet being some of them and Patchouli and Rose being a couple more.

With one spray Oud 27 hits your skin with such a strong burst of Civet it's impossible to ignore. It simply doesn't budge either. The Oud takes slight control by adding a dusty-sweet note but that's still not enough to take the fecal edge off.

All day it's stayed pretty much the same too, it hasn't developed just weakened. Through weakening we have been able to enjoy it a bit more, but that's taken a few hours and we're not sure we want to be kept waiting that long for a result that smells like a watered down version of the itself. 

It is a highly debated perfume; some love it and some hate it so don't let our opinion put you off trying a sample at least! We admit that perhaps if we were blind-smelling Oud 27 we wouldn't be so put off by it, but because we know Civet is in it, our expectations were already half-way set. It does eventually mellow down to a woody-sweet scent but that Civet is really determined and doesn't go quietly!

Le Labo have a very interesting way of making perfume. Found in Grasse, New York and London, if you visit their concession in a department store you'll find them making each perfume from scratch. Kind of like a pre-determined Subway, you say you want Oud 27, for example, and they will make it up for you while you watch and wait. It's a very modern way of doing things and does break down the wall between perfumer and perfume wearer. 

So, we won't be reaching to wear this one again anytime soon but we do love Le Labo, the way they work and the idea behind what they do; we'll just be steering clear of any Civet for a while. 

Has anyone else tried it or had a similar experience with Civet in the past?

1 comment:

Unknown said...

I loved your honest appraisal of Civet.

In theory I love Civet but because its a Base Note and is designed to hang around (well, in its natural state), its damned hard to blend so that it enhances but doesn't engulf. I like my perfumes subtle and subtle civet aint! It's not surprising that many liken it to "cat's pee" - it really does have that odour.

I've stopped using it temporarily because by adding just one drop it has ruined a few formulations when what I wanted was a sexy edge. But then Chanel used it in Chanel No. 5. So she (or her Perfumer knew a thing or two!). Or three.

Love your Perfume articles.
Rosie